Hidden Treasure in the Ozarks: Oaks Cemetery

Several weeks ago, President Obama attempted to right a wrong against veterans who were denied the Congressional Medal of Honor because they were black or hispanic.

The story reminded me of the angst and disquiet Lynn and I felt when we set out to locate a  treasure that is not only hidden in the Ozarks, but largely forgotten: the Oaks Cemetery in Fayetteville, Arkansas.

:

IMG_8038

Cemetery History

The cemetery was established after the Civil War, and for many years was the only place African Americans in Washington County were allowed to be buried. With only one exception (more on this fascinating story in our next post), it is the only cemetery where former slaves are interred.

A good many of the graves are merely marked with a stone — others aren’t marked at all.

This grave is likely that of a former slave. Although the name of the person buried here is largely obscured, the birthdate is listed as 1801.

This grave is likely that of a former slave. Although the name of the person buried here is largely obscured, the birthdate is listed as 1801.

Grave of a Jeffie Dowell, a child of former slaves

Grave of a Jeffie Dowell, a child of former slaves

 

Murder in Tin Cup

One resident interred in an unmarked grave was Patrolman Lem McPherson, Fayetteville’s first African American police officer. McPherson’s beat was in Tin Cup, the black section of town. In late April  1928 as prohibition was drawing to a close, local bootlegger EB Williams was released from jail after a 9 month stint for his crimes of intemperance.

26 year old Williams had become paranoid, and once released from jail he plied his festering paranoia with more alcohol. Convinced that his wife had been having an affair with 48 year old McPherson, he set out to hunt him down.

After roaming the streets looking for the object of his hatred, Williams finally found and confronted  McPherson; he shot him twice before stealing the victim’s service revolver — Williams eluded police for nearly a week before he was finally captured. He was ultimately tried and convicted of second degree murder and was sentenced to 21 years in prison.

Forgotten Soldiers

The Oaks Center is directly adjacent to the the south side of the Fayetteville National Cemetery, where local veterans and their wives are laid to rest.  However, there are a number of black veterans who were not allowed the honor of being buried with their fellow veterans, even though their graves are located mere feet away. Not long after our trek to the cemetery, Obama honored vets who’d been overlooked because of race — in my own mind I was  comforted by this and hoped that in some cosmic fashion the “less than” way black veterans and Officer McPherson  were treated in the past was somehow atoned for; that maybe they know we are now aware of the injustice.

World War I veteran Frank Smith was buried in Oaks Cemetery rather than the Fayetteville National Cemetery

World War I veteran Frank Smith was buried in Oaks Cemetery rather than the Fayetteville National Cemetery

James Harrison Kay: Dual War Veteran

The Mexican-American war began in 1846 and lasted for nearly two years — depending on the ages of the soldiers, many of the troops who fought together during that war fought either with or against each other in the Civil War, which began about 14 years later in 1861.

As an example,  Generals Ulysses Grant and Robert E Lee were allies in the Mexican war, and of course bitter arch rivals less than two decades later.

In a moment of pure luck, Lynn and I  discovered a gentleman from the Ozarks who was a veteran in both wars: James Harrison Kay.  He was born in 1817  (Lynn noticed that he was born only 18 years after George Washington’s death, which is kind of mind-blowing) and died in 1891; he’s buried in Coffelt Cemetery in Benton County, Arkansas:

James Harrison Kay Burial Site

James Harrison Kay Burial Site

Kay was born in Abbeville, South Carolina – when President Polk asked for volunteers to help win the Mexican war, James Kay answered the call at the age of 29 becoming a member of the South Carolina Palmetto regiment.

The prestigious Palmettos were the first regiment to storm the gates of Mexico City and to subsequently raise the American flag in victory.

At some point after the his valiant service in the Mexican War, Kay relocated to Mississippi — he became a 2nd Lt. in the Confederate Army, serving in the 17th regiment of the Mississippi Infantry –the regiment (nicknamed the Burnsville Blues) garnered high praise from General Robert E. Lee for meritorious service.

One of Kay’s fellow soldiers, Robert A Moore  kept a diary of the regiment’s day to day activities up until he was killed in the Battle of Chickamauga (late summer, 1863)– this battle was probably the most notorious and bloodiest battle the 17th regiment was engaged in.  In fact, the Battle of Chickamauga was the bloodiest battle in the Western theater — 13,000 troops were killed.

“Whoever controls Chattanooga Wins the War” — Abraham Lincoln  

Lincoln’s opinion regarding a Chattanooga victory was based on logistical fact. Defeating Chattanooga would result in a “clear shot” all the way to Atlanta. A major rail hub, a disruption of supply lines to the confederates would also be possible. These reasons, plus the fact that Chattanooga was a banking, commerce and manufacturing center fueled Rosecrans [Union general] toward this ultimate goal.

Despite the fact that the Chickamauga “skirmish”  was considered a Confederate victory, nothing was gained by the South.  A determined Rosecrans ultimately took control of Chattanooga — the beginning of the end was near for the confederates. A footnote in Robert Moore’s diary describes the plight of the 17th regiment 2 years and some months into the war:

“. . .with some marching and countermarching, the 17th remained with Longstreet in East Tennessee, enduring great hardships. More than half of the men were at times barefooted and almost naked, when the weather was bitter cold and ground covered with snow.”

Confederate soldier monument, Confederate Cemetery, Fayetteville, AR

Confederate soldier monument, Confederate Cemetery, Fayetteville, AR

 

 

James Harrison Kay after the War

2nd Lt. Kay returned to Mississippi after the Civil War, no doubt a changed man – one of his sons was lost in battle and he had to begin the task of rebuilding a life for his family in the post Civil War south — a process complicated by the assassination of Lincoln.  At one point after the War– sometime before 1880, he relocated to Arkansas, where he lived until his death in 1891. – just one of the many unsung heroes hidden in the Ozarks

Although it's certainly not uncommon to locate gravestones of Confederate soldiers in Arkansas, it's much less common to find a dual war veteran, such as James Harrison Kay.

Although it’s certainly not uncommon to locate gravestones of Confederate soldiers in Arkansas, it’s much less common to find a dual war veteran, such as James Harrison Kay.

 

 

Poor Farm Cemetery Reminder of Forgotten Ones by Lynn Yowell and Rachel Stockton

 

Historic Poor Farm Cemetery in Bentonville, AR

Historic Poor Farm Cemetery in Bentonville, AR

 

 

It’s part of the human condition — to have at least of modicum of fear of being alone and forgotten; but in reality, there are but a few who are truly and completely forgotten, especially in this digital era – where we are always “on” and accessible whether we want to be or not.

Yet the “Poor Man’s” Cemetery in historic Bentonville, AR bears witness to the fact that a century and a half ago there were a group of people who were utterly alone, save for the benevolence of an Ozark citizen who took in those who no longer had a connection to this world, even before they passed from it.

The Benton County “Poor Farm” was established in 1850; the cemetery was laid out during the Civil War and remained active during the Reconstruction era — downtown Bentonville had been burned by Union soldiers, and the town began to re-establish itself during the reunification of the United States.

Those who “qualified” to live on the farm were sold, with the understanding that they would work on the Farm for at least a year.

Below is an 1880 list of some of the residents who made their home there, along with an assortment of politically incorrect reasons for their presence:

Residents of the Benton County Poor Farm in 1880:

• Permelia Morse, 74, widow, crippled

• Sylvania Lee, 67, married woman, dropsy

• Lucy Younger, 59, single woman, crippled

• Matilda Ferguson, 55, single woman, old age

• James Barnes, 79, married man, old age

• William Bryson, 72, married man, old age and blind

• Archibald Whinery, 49, single man, paralysis

• William Brownhill, 21, single man, idiotic

• Margaret Robins, 16, single girl, idiotic

• Margarett Garrett, 59, widow, insane

• Eli Suter, 38, single man, insane

• William Dwyer, 59, married man, insane

Sadly, for over 100 years, the cemetery was neglected. As shown in the photograph below, weeds covered  the modest, unmarked gravestones, the only reminder of a time when life was relentlessly unkind to those who were seen as unfit:

Poor Farm Sign

 

But fortunately, we Ozark Treasure Hunters discovered that the area was recently cleaned up in July of 2013 — it seems only fitting to treat the long ago disenfranchised with the dignity and respect that eluded them in life:

IMG_7928

Below: One of the grave markers in the Poor Man’s Cemetery, Bentonville, AR:

IMG_7903

“Leave, ah leave me not alone, Oh receive my soul at last. . ”